Dominique Ansel has opened a new kitchen in NoMad churning out a bevy of burnished breakfast pastries.


By Florence Fabricant

The pastry chef Dominique Ansel has a knack for Viennoiseries, another name for croissants and their well-burnished everyday cousins. His Cronut aptly demonstrates his talent and imagination. Now, with his new NoMad workshop, he is delving deeper into the possibilities offered by the genre. “For 12 years working in Paris, it was all I was doing, and I saw how creative you could be,” he said. His idea is to produce classics like a crisp-skinned croissant with a properly honeycombed interior, but also to disrupt the category. So there is a delicious, flaky multigrain croissant, and one made with olive oil, garlic and rosemary. He’s making a type of brioche scented with orange and star anise, another pastry filled with rice pudding and huckleberry jam, and crunchy gougères oozing Comté cheese. The space is just a kitchen with a sales counter, so plan to eat your purchases at the few tables outside or soon after you get them home; Mr. Ansel says their shelf-life is brief. He will soon install a small chocolate kitchen in part of the space.

Dominique Ansel Workshop, 17 East 27th Street, dominiqueanselworkshop.com.

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