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Kami Rita, 52, reached the 29,032ft scummit on Saturday, heading a group of 11 Nepalese guides who fixed ropes on the route. They will help hundreds to make the top in May, the best month for ascents.

Mingma Sherpa, of the Kathmandu-based Seven Summit Treks, said the group had no problems despite operating at night.

Kami, whose father was also a guide, first scaled Everest in 1994 and has been making the trip nearly every year since.

He is one of many Sherpas whose expertise are vital to the safety and success of foreign climbers.

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